New Year, New Head Chef – An Interview with NOK NOK’s New Executive Chef Thuleewan Boonyarattana

2025-01-08T09:55:11

At the end of 2024, the previous executive chef, Khampan Pukdangpan, ventured back out into the wider world. Taking over the kitchen and leading the team at NOK NOK is Thuleewan Boonyarattana, a Thai chef with many exciting plans for NOK NOK! She firmly believes that her journey to Tallinn was no coincidence.

In an interview, we explored the background of the new executive chef, her sources of inspiration, and what the future holds for NOK NOK.

What has your journey to becoming a head chef been like, and who has inspired you along the way?

I have always been inspired and supported by my father, who used to prepare meals for men working in tin mines. He could create truly incredible authentic Thai dishes from the simplest ingredients. His passion and ability to play with food sparked my love for cooking at a young age.

When I was a child attending school, I often felt that school education did not nurture creativity or self-expression, especially for girls. My questions and ideas did not always fit within the traditional school environment. My father noticed this and decided to let me be homeschooled. At home, I had the freedom to explore, including diving deeply into the art of cooking. This freedom shaped my love for the culinary world.

At the age of 13, I moved to live with my uncle on Koh Samui Island, where I had my first official experience working in restaurants and hotels. My uncle’s restaurant became my true learning ground – I discovered how to present food, balance flavours, and create memorable experiences for guests. I was always eager to try everything, from mixing sauces to crafting authentic Thai dishes. At the same time, guests taught me languages, which broadened my horizons and encouraged me to dream big. Even back then, I was determined that one day I would open my own restaurant, where I could share authentic Thai flavours and the story of my passion for food with the world.

Where did life take you after childhood?

I completed my education through homeschooling, earned a bachelor’s degree in Bangkok, and initially started working in the real estate sector. However, I always felt that the restaurant world was much closer to my heart. In 1997, the natural course of events led me to open my first pub in Bangkok together with my boss, who was an entrepreneur for the royal family.

At the pub, we also served Thai dishes, and I proudly showcased and refined my signature dish, Massaman lamb curry, along with the most popular classic, pad thai. I invited my sister, who was trained as a chef, and her husband to work there, while I took charge of restaurant management, concept development, and creating the menus. It was an exciting period where I experienced what it truly meant to run a restaurant and pursue my passion—both in the kitchen and with the guests!

Soon after, I decided to further develop my skills and moved to the United Kingdom to earn a master’s degree in food and beverage management. That experience broadened my perspective and gave me the confidence to introduce Thai cuisine on an international level.

Returning to Thailand, I opened my own restaurant chain, which quickly became a success. At just 27 years old, I was managing seven restaurants and a team of nearly 60 people. Our restaurants, located in beachfront settings, attracted both locals and tourists with a menu rich in seafood dishes and authentic Thai cuisine. I also created special menus for honeymooning couples and VIP clients, offering them unique and memorable dining experiences. Those years solidified my belief that Thai cuisine is something I want to share with the world.

After the 2004 tsunami and the economic crisis, I decided to try something new. At a friend’s invitation, I joined the crew of a luxury yacht as a private chef for a high-profile family. There, I enjoyed creating and serving exquisite dishes to a small, intimate group. This exclusive approach deepened my passion for cooking. I truly value having the time to focus on the details and serve dishes with an extra touch of elegance. I believe this has become a defining niche of mine!

Later, I returned to the UK, where I worked for several years, focusing on Thai and Asian dishes while also exploring international cuisine. It was a busy yet inspiring period in my career.

My journey then led me to Canada, where I concentrated on sharing Thai flavours while also immersing myself in the traditions of Quebec’s French cuisine. This experience gave me a new perspective and skills, but in the end, I felt the vibrant energy of Europe calling me back.

Throughout my journey, I have faced many challenges – from SARS and COVID to economic crises and the 2004 tsunami. Each has left its mark on my life, but they have also strengthened my resilience and drive to keep moving forward. I am naturally curious and determined, and my experience working in restaurants from a young age has given me invaluable skills and knowledge. These have only deepened my passion for cooking and restaurant management. I truly believe that because of these experiences, I have the courage, wisdom, and instinct to bring a unique touch to every dish I create.

How did you end up in Estonia, and why?

While living and working in Canada, I gradually realised that I needed more energy around me. I was not looking for the bustle of a huge metropolis, but rather a place where I could meet more people, enjoy a livelier restaurant scene and city life, and focus on my business. So, when NOK NOK’s previous executive chef, Khampan, approached me with this proposal, I immediately felt that Tallinn, a charming little Nordic capital, would suit me perfectly!

There is also an incredible story behind it – for a long time, I had been dreaming about a brave woman with a sword from centuries ago, who symbolised my ancestors and perhaps even myself. While walking in Tallinn’s Old Town, right near NOK NOK, I stumbled upon a stone carving under the Town Hall arches that depicted exactly the same sword-wielding woman! In that moment, I felt like this is exactly where I was meant to be.

I deeply love culture and historical architecture, so NOK NOK is in the perfect location for me – right in the heart of it all.

How have you been received here, and what are your first impressions of the people?

Estonians are so similar to Thai people! Both are incredibly kind, friendly, and warm – this was one of the first things I noticed here, and every day I am reminded of it again and again.

Have you tried any Estonian dishes, and do you have a favourite?

Since I have only been in Estonia for a short time, I have not had the chance to try many local dishes yet. However, during this Christmas season, I discovered gingerbread cookies. I am not much of a meat lover, but I have also heard about black pudding sausages, which sound like an interesting experience – I definitely want to try it. In Thailand, we have a traditional dish of raw beef slices served with cow’s blood, so there might be more similarities between our cuisines than one might think.

As a head chef, what do you usually prepare for yourself at home?

This answer might surprise you – chefs, who are surrounded by a variety of flavours all day, often prefer simple, clean tastes at home. My favourite dish to prepare at home is steamed rice and vegetables, as well as grilled corn. I tend to avoid fancy dishes since I have plenty of opportunities to taste those at work.

What are your hobbies outside of work?

I feel that my mission is to help people. Some time ago, I created a website called thefarmerchefs.com, where I have collected interviews with Thai chefs from around the world over the years. My goal is to preserve the culture of Thai chefs and bring their inspiring stories to the public. These interviews are also forming the basis of a book. One of my major aspirations is to raise awareness and funding to establish a school for children from underprivileged families in Thailand and for future Thai chefs.

In my free time, I also love painting, especially nature and architecture. I believe that cooking – combining flavours and presenting dishes beautifully – is a form of art, much like painting. So, deep down, I see myself as an artist.

As for physical activities, I enjoy fencing and running. I am currently looking for a place in Tallinn where I can practise fencing, and running here has already proven to be delightful.

What are your plans for NOK NOK? What new and exciting things can we expect?

My first priority is to get to know my colleagues, the unique character of the restaurant, and the preferences of the local people. For me, it is essential to understand which flavours and experiences bring the most joy to our guests. I believe that only through close collaboration with the team and by listening to the expectations of the local community can we create something truly special.

Nature and environmental protection have always been very important to me. From a young age, I learned from my father to respect ingredients and find ways to use every part of them in cooking. For example, with basil, it is not just the leaves that can be used – the stems are excellent for seasoning sauces. Similarly, even the smallest vegetable scraps can be used to create rich broths and sauces. This approach not only reduces food waste but also gives dishes a deeper and more authentic flavour. At NOK NOK, I definitely want to promote a sustainable kitchen, where we honour nature and make the most of every ingredient.

In the menu, I plan to expand the range of flavours by introducing my signature dish – Massaman lamb curry. It has been a favourite for many from the very first bite. Additionally, I want to include more healthy options, such as plant-based dishes and lighter snacks, perfect for sharing. My goal is for our dishes to not only be delicious but also nourishing, providing energy, joy, and balance for both the body and the soul.

The sharing menu will also get a fresh twist – I want guests to enjoy a variety of Thai flavours in smaller portions, similar to the dim sum experience. This format allows guests to try a wider selection of dishes while feeling light and satisfied after their meal.

For me, visual aesthetics are very important. I believe that a beautifully presented dish is like a work of art that enhances the dining experience and pleases the eye. You can expect more thoughtfully designed garnishes that add a special sparkle to each dish, proving that every detail matters.

I believe that chef’s special dinners for smaller groups will hold a special place in my heart at NOK NOK. These dinners allow me to offer truly personalised and unforgettable experiences, where every dish tells a story of Thai cuisine. I deeply value the opportunity to introduce authentic Thai flavours and their cultural background through food, giving each guest my full attention.

I also look forward to continuing cooking classes – a wonderful way to share the secrets and traditions of Thai cuisine with a wider audience. My goal is to inspire guests to care for their health and nature through food, as Thai cuisine is known for its balance, freshness, and healthy ingredients.

My mission is to contribute to making NOK NOK a place where every guest feels comfortable and leaves with their senses fully refreshed. Whether it is through the flavours they have enjoyed, knowing that we respect every ingredient, or finding inspiration to live a healthier and more balanced life – Thai cuisine nourishes both the body and the soul!

I noticed that you personally greeted all the guests upon arriving at the restaurant. Is this your usual practice?

Yes, absolutely, I often do this when I am at the restaurant. Guest satisfaction and feedback are very important to me. This is something I have carried with me since my youth, when I had a lot of direct contact with restaurant guests and realised how crucial this connection is for a restaurant’s success.

Plus, food always tastes better when you are in a good mood – even the best chef’s dish will not taste wonderful if you are in a bad mood. The care and love that goes into making a dish can always be felt, so for the best results, the chef must also be happy and content.