The new head chef of Nero and Tempo Resto, Ragmar Haabma

2026-04-21T10:48:49

This spring, the kitchens at the Tallink Spa & Conference Hotel are led by a new Head Chef, Ragmar Haabma. And yes—kitchens, plural—as he now oversees operations at Restaurant Nero, Tempo Resto, and the conference center kitchen. In this interview, we explore his background and future plans.

Welcome to the team, Ragmar! Tell us—who are you and where do you come from?

I come from the drumlin landscapes of Põlvamaa, from the village of Karilatsi, and a large farming family. I have five brothers and two sisters—I’m number four. My parents are also from southern Estonia, but both sides of the family have been thoroughly researched, and it turns out we have Swedish and Finnish roots. That’s also where my name comes from. It was originally meant to be Ragnar—a powerful Viking name—but when my father went to register it, he forgot whether it should have an “m” or an “n,” and so it became Ragmar.

Growing up on a large farm means I can do all kinds of farm work—from hoeing potatoes and hauling hay to slaughtering chickens, butchering pigs, and making blood sausages. From the age of seven, I worked as a shepherd, and throughout school I spent summers hoeing beets and potatoes to earn pocket money. So I understand, at a very basic level, where food comes from and how much effort it takes.

How did you become a chef? What inspired you?

Honestly, it was a coincidence. At first, on my father’s advice, I went to study farm management at the Põltsamaa School of Home Economics and Agriculture. But when I arrived, the applicant list for farm management was already so long it seemed impossible to get in. Next to it was a much shorter list—for chef-confectioner—so to reduce the risk, I applied there instead. And I got in.

From that moment, life really took off. I moved out of home into a dorm, away from my parents’ supervision—so studying wasn’t exactly my main focus. Luckily, I started doing internships in Tallinn right away. My first placement was at Army pub under the Ministry of Defense, which I got through my older brother. For me, it was a whole new world—after all, it was the capital! Others stayed in school cafeterias. That’s where I learned how to make Chicken Kyiv and what life in a restaurant kitchen is really like.

From the very first day of my internship, they started paying me—and my career began to grow. Then came Olde Hansa with the late Rainer Härm (also known as TV chef Jazz), followed by catering for Estonian Air from the former Ühispank headquarters, then shift manager at Troika, purchasing manager at BabyBack BBQ, and eventually Head Chef at the Russian restaurant Balalaika. After that, I worked in various hotels, where I got my most serious training: large breakfasts for 1200 people, multi-course gala dinners, and a wide variety of styles and menus. During COVID, I also tried catering. Now I’m back in hotels and very excited about the diversity of the work here.

Are there any cuisines or styles you particularly prefer?

My favorite is grilling, but also Mediterranean cuisine—especially Italian. The simpler, cleaner, and more authentic, the better.

I especially enjoy grilling beef. At Troika, we also made beef steaks, but back then the quality of meat was very inconsistent. During Soviet times, beef was almost seen as a last resort—something you chose only if nothing else was available. People didn’t really understand it or know how to assess its quality. At Troika, I learned what proper beef tenderloin should be like—sometimes we had to send half the delivery back to the supplier.

Today, meat processing and aging have evolved, and quality is much more consistent. Beef is incredibly versatile—how you cut it, how you cook it. The most important thing is understanding how to value the animal from nose to tail, using it in the best possible way while also being as environmentally responsible as possible.

My mother found it hard to accept that a cow isn’t just a dairy animal but also an excellent source of meat. The older generation often has expectations in the wrong place. That’s why it’s better to have fewer expectations—be present in the moment and see what’s offered; the surprises will always be greater.

Geographically, I love the Mediterranean region. What I appreciate most is the simplicity and sense of home. The presentation may not be like modern Scandinavian cuisine, but the simplicity, freshness, and flavor are unbeatable—and that’s what keeps Mediterranean cuisine so highly valued.

Who cooks at home? What do you usually prepare?

I cook—someone else washes the dishes! Over the years, I’ve simply learned how to cook faster than most home cooks. Unless it’s sandwiches—then I’m happy to hand over control.

When visiting my parents, everyone expects me to make dinner. Especially in summer, it’s great to “hide” behind the grill and take charge there. I make the savory dishes, my sister handles dessert. Usually, I choose pork neck or a cut from the rear of beef—since we’re often 30–40 people at the table, large cuts are easier.

I always prepare fresh salads and different sauces so everyone can mix and match. With beef, I use only salt and pepper—nothing else is needed. Chimichurri goes perfectly with beef; it’s one of my favorites. Grilling beef isn’t complicated: start with high heat to seal in the juices, let it rest a bit, then add salt and pepper—and enjoy. There’s no need to fear the pink color—it’s not blood; the meat has long been drained at the slaughterhouse. Those are simply meat juices.

In everyday life, though, our child decides what we eat. Luckily, they’re a big meat fan: grilled meat, cutlets, rillettes, and roasts. Works for me!

What’s your go-to comfort food or favorite dish?

In spring, I look forward to the first wild garlic and chives. At the Balti Jaam market, I have vendors who grow them in greenhouses. For me, spring truly begins when I can make wild garlic pesto—that’s a special moment.

At home, I like making pasta dishes—they’re quick, simple, and hard to mess up. Even handmade pasta doesn’t take that long, and fresh pasta is far more nutritious. I enjoy filled pasta—what dumplings are to us, tortellini are to Italians.

I don’t use Wolt or Bolt much. They’re an extension of restaurants for visibility, but when I think about how long the food might sit in a delivery bag, I’d rather not. I prefer picking it up myself or eating on-site. I also wouldn’t want my own food delivered by courier.

What are your hobbies outside of work?

I’m either hunting or “hunting”—at sea or in the forest. I sail. I’ve been a passionate hunter since a young age, but nowadays I enjoy non-violent hunting more. Watching a capercaillie’s mating dance, emerging nature, the first cubs and calves—it takes real effort to think more deeply and respectfully about animals, but it gives you a powerful emotional experience.

Being at sea lets you completely switch off. Everything seems to pause—Estonia’s archipelago and islets are full of energy. If I can’t go to sea, I find that energy in bogs and marshes. I have my own cloudberry spot, I go cranberry picking, and I gather mushrooms. Sometimes I hike; sometimes I just walk in a straight line toward a point, crossing whatever comes my way.

When I need to reset, I go to a nature reserve, breathe, and try to connect with nature. I recently browsed a new book by Fred Jüssi—opened a random page and read. The wording is phenomenal. Nature gives us our raw materials—it deserves respect.

What changes can we expect at Nero and Tempo under your leadership?

Nero, with its Italian menu, feels like home to me—it’s a very natural environment, and Italian cuisine suits me well. We will continue to honor classic flavors while moving more toward handmade pasta, adding new and interesting nuances to the selection.

Tempo, on the other hand, feels like a new family member—a place that already has a strong identity and character. It has always done very well what it was created for: offering honest, flavorful, well-balanced food with excellent value for money. That consistency is Tempo’s strength, and I plan to build on that foundation—maintaining the current level and developing it thoughtfully, step by step.

After renovation, Tempo will also become cozier and more visually appealing. This creates a great environment for everyday lunches as well as gatherings and events. The renewed Tempo will no longer be just a buffet—it will be a place where it’s easy to come with a team, friends, or larger groups. That role will become even more important.

During the day, Tempo will remain what it is—a breakfast and lunch restaurant where you can reliably get a good meal. Breakfast will be simple, clear, and tasty—everything you need, without excess. The lunch menu will focus on familiar, home-style flavors: two soups, two main courses, fresh salads, and a light dessert. We offer food people genuinely want to eat—not something overthought.

In the evenings, Tempo will take on a new life. Alongside special events and pop-up dinners, we plan to host food and beverage workshops—giving people a great reason to visit outside regular lunch hours. We have a large and diverse team: chefs, sommeliers, passionate bartenders, and pizza chefs from Italy. You can expect limoncello workshops, introductions to craft gin and cocktail culture, sparkling wine and wine tastings with dinners, as well as pizza and pasta workshops, grill nights, and cooking sessions with children. These are experiences where guests don’t just come to eat—they participate and learn something new.

In summary, our direction is not to be bigger, but to be smarter and more precise. Whether it’s Nero’s Italian classics or Tempo’s everyday dishes, the most important thing is respect for ingredients and the ability to do simple things exceptionally well.